Our Sunday in Central, Hong Kong carried a quiet sense of solitude with fewer crowds in sight, yet the climbs up and down its hills left us flushed and breathless, the heat clinging close, the air thick, the steps steep. But the moment we waltzed into Salon des Refusés, everything softened instantly.
The dimly lit, disarming space, lined with mahogany tables and shell-shaped wall lights, hinted at the intimacy to come. A welcome as warm as sunlight came naturally from the attentive staff, setting the tone for their Cuisine du Soleil, where Southern France and Northern Italy flavors don’t compete, but softly intertwine. We took our seats at the counter, watching the kitchen move in an energetic yet poetic rhythm.
At the center, Head Chef Luca Marinelli, shaped by his roots in Lombardy and a deep understanding of what both comfort and elegance can taste like, cooks with a kind of ease that feels both precise and deeply personal.
During our visit, we left ourselves “in Chef Luca’s hands,” a flowing tasting menu of shared plates shaped by the day’s finest catch, gently lifted by a four-glass pairing from the sommelier that brought each course into moodier focus.
Among the many umami-packed dishes, some lingered longer than others in our minds. The Sardine on Toast arrived glistening like silk, its silver sheen resting on a golden crouton. It was what lay beneath that transformed it: sweet confit Sicilian tomato, smoked butter, and a delicate thread of Cantabrian anchovy, all weaving together into one perfect bite.
Then came the Vegetable Crudité, composed with almost sculptural grace, chilled over ice and accompanied by cod tarama, crisp croutons, and cucumber blossom fritti, served with a bright tomato Pernod coulis. The Bluefin Tuna Carpaccio followed, light yet rich and refreshing. Thin ribbons of fish were kissed with Calabrian chili oil and confit tomato, setting the stage for a deeper turn with the next dish, Hokkaido scallop with Sicilian pistachio.
It arrived bathed in a buttery sauce, generously scattered with green pistachio jewels, nutty and indulgent in all the right ways. Then, the Red King crab, coated in espelette butter and lifted with a squeeze of lime, struck a beautiful balance between depth and brightness.
Just when we thought our stomachs had reached their limit, the Spiny Lobster Tagliatelle appeared, silky strands cloaked in a tomato and preserved lemon sauce, deeply comforting yet laced with a gentle citrus edge that kept us going, bite after bite.
Dessert followed with a gentle touch. Torta Aurora, impossibly light, was served alongside a scoop of lime gelato floating in a delicate pool of Grey Goose vodka. A finish that didn’t overwhelm, but quietly closed the evening on a high.
We came for dinner, but it was the palate-pleasing parade of dishes and the genuine warmth of the team that stayed with us long after the last plate was cleared. It’s a gentle reminder that a memorable meal is never just about what’s on the plate, but also about the care in the service and the feeling a space holds. And here, everything falls into place with ease.
When in Hong Kong, Salon des Refusés is where we’d return for a brief, beautiful drift to the Mediterranean.
– Featured image credit: Black Sheep Restaurants / Salon des Refusés –