Our first time waltzing into Sartoria by Paulo Airaudo was met with a welcoming harmony of elegant warmth and playful poise. If we had to describe this restaurant in a phrase, it would be sophistication with soul.
Nestled on the 56th floor of EA Rooftop at The Empire, this Italian hideaway artfully marries time-honored Italian culinary traditions with subtle Thai and global nuances, all curated under the creative vision of Chef Paulo Airaudo, the multi-Michelin-starred chef whose global portfolio spans 14 restaurants and six stars.
Sartoria marks his first foray into Southeast Asia, where Mediterranean flair ascends to new heights in the heart of Bangkok. Inside, copper, brick red, brown, and gold tones bathe the space in sensual gravity. Look a little closer though, and you’ll spot something delightfully unexpected like tiny Mario figures tucked between tables, a playful tribute to Chef Paulo’s favorite cartoon character.
Channeling the essence of Florence — the birthplace of Italian tailoring, to which the restaurant’s name pays homage — this space weaves old-world Tuscan charm with sweeping views of Bangkok’s cityscape, creating a dining experience where two worlds beautifully converge.
What captivated us most was the open kitchen set before the dining room like a theatre stage, inviting diners to witness the culinary ballet unfold. Copper cookware glints under the light, an open-fire station crackles with life, and a table of seasonal produce hints at the evening’s pleasures. It feels like stepping into a scene somewhere between Alice Waters’ soulful pantry and Julia Child’s iconic kitchen wall decked out in copper pots and pans (if you know, you know). Prepare to be spellbound, as we were, by the rhythmic clatter of knives, the hiss of flame, and the gentle symphony of ladles in motion.
In the heart of the kitchen, Executive Chef Aleš Donát leads with quiet confidence and seasoned grace. With over a decade of fine-dining experience honed across acclaimed kitchens in Europe and Asia, he brings both discipline and daring to the table.
Aligned with Chef Paulo’s culinary vision, Chef Aleš honours the rhythm of the seasons, sourcing ingredients at their peak throughout the year. His reverence for nature’s bounty, whether gathered in Thailand or from far-off fields, is matched by a flair for inventive technique. Sous Chef Lorenzo Scotto also brings both culinary precision and playful character to the kitchen, balancing technical finesse with a light-hearted spirit. Together, he and Chef Aleš move in silent sync, making sure everything is effortlessly choreographed.
As spring tiptoes in, Sartoria’s menu welcomes a seasonal refresh. New spring dishes are now available through L’Opera Completa, the eight-course tasting menu, or L’Essenza, a six-course experience with optional wine pairings. Both offer a vibrant showcase of the season’s freshest produce.
Among the highlighted dishes this season are Duck Cappelletti, comforting and full of depth; Tagliolini dressed in a velvety vin jaune sauce and topped with uni; and a hearty Risotto Carabinero, where a rich green base sets off the crimson brilliance of carabinero prawn and bright kumquat slices.
Two other stunners are Kinmedai, elegantly paired with white asparagus, morel, and a luxurious Champagne sauce; and tender Pigeon, served rare with just a slight sear on the skin alongside green asparagus and vierge sauce.
We were thoroughly delighted by the journey through L’Opera Completa. Each course was thoughtfully composed and presented as a vibrant tapestry of colors and textures. The wine pairings also impressed us. Sartoria’s cellar leans into old-world charm, featuring a carefully curated selection from small-scale Italian vineyards that favor sustainable, low-intervention methods. The list reads like a love letter to mindful winemaking.
One more reason this spot earns our wholehearted recommendation is the sincere, thoughtful care from the chefs and team.
Learn more about Sartoria by Paulo Airaudo through their website. To book your table, call +66 (0) 2 407 1654, email ea-reservations@marriotthotels.com or visit http://bit.ly/40ZisOS.
[All images courtesy of Sartoria by Paulo Airaudo]