In the years of crossing paths with Chef Alessandro Frau, one thing that has always been constant in every encounter is his quiet elegance that seems to drift from his very presence into every plate he serves. There’s an effortless polish in his manner that finds its echo in his cooking and in the warm yet sophisticated spirit of both his restaurants — Acqua Restaurant Phuket and Acqua Restaurant Bangkok.
Since leaving Sardinia in 1999, Chef Alessandro has wandered far and wide from England’s bustling kitchens to the spirited streets of Mexico, the crisp air of Scandinavia, and the romantic charm of Paris, all in search of his own culinary voice.
The journey then brought him to Phuket where at just 28 he took the helm as Executive Chef at the Sheraton Grande Laguna Phuket, and soon after, in 2009, Acqua Restaurant Phuket was born as a place where the Phuket seascape and Sardinian soul meet in delicious harmony.
Building on Acqua Phuket’s award-winning success, Chef Alessandro brought a taste of his island home to Thailand’s capital in 2022, adding a slice of Sardinia to a lush corner of Bangkok’s electric concrete jungle.
During Dinner Incredible week by Chef Giorgio Diana, we found ourselves at Acqua Restaurant Bangkok, where Chef Alessandro wove excellence into every course, making sure his fellow chef comrades and guests were cared for with warmth and deliciousness.
Five signature dishes were served that evening, but the journey began with the Chef’s Snack Selection to whet our appetites before we happily moved on to the first star of the night: Squid Tagliatelle. Here, humble squid was reborn as silky ribbons, a time-consuming process that spoke of Chef Alessandro’s patience and skill. Each strand carried a refreshing splash of mint and extra virgin olive oil, while the whole dish was luxuriously bejewelled with Siberian caviar and dotted with thinly sliced raw asparagus for a crisp contrast. It was a dish that danced between delicate textures and bright flavours.
Next, we savoured the Sardinian Smoked Eel gracefully swimming in sweet-and-sour white balsamic sauce and dotted with a confetti of finely diced pickled vegetables. This delicate-looking dish boasted a richness we weren’t prepared for (and couldn’t get enough of).
Then came The Countryside On Rainy Days, a hearty risotto cooked with foie gras, snails, and wild mushrooms. This dish burst with robust, comforting flavours and served as a nostalgic tribute to Chef Alessandro’s childhood when rainy days meant wandering the countryside with his father in search of snails. Next, the Wood-Fired Roasted Suckling Pig arrived, its crackling skin delivering a satisfying crunch that perfectly contrasted with the fork-tender meat beneath.
As impressive as everything was, the LA BANANA by Maurizio Cattelan truly stole the show, capping off the night on a grand, sweet note. Drawing inspiration from the iconic duct-taped banana that captured global attention and sold for $6.2 million, this dessert was a clever nod to that bold artwork by the famed Italian artist. Inside, smooth banana mousse hid a rich Nutella centre, offering a finale that was both airy and indulgent. It was, hands down, the perfect, playful end to the meal.
Having experienced Chef Alessandro’s creations throughout the years, we can safely say his food never disappoints. His cooking is deeply rooted in Italian tradition with a special reverence for his native Sardinia, which he showcases so beautifully on each plate. Yet there’s also a modern touch woven into every dish, subtle techniques that build umami-rich flavours sure to entice both Asian and Western palates alike.
If you’re searching for a place that truly delivers excellence in taste and setting, this gem comes highly recommended.
[All images courtesy of Acqua Restaurant Bangkok / Chef Alessandro Frau]